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The story of the "Mumbles Train", as it came to be known,
is as heart breaking as it is fascinating. Considering its myriad achievements
and world records, it's incongruous that the railway isn't more famous. It is
disgraceful also that the railway was abruptly dismantled in 1960 (at that time
electric tram powered) - 153 years after those historic first steps in 1807. To
the commuter age and the world of transport that we take for granted today, this
was an innovation equivalent to any. The world's first - and the longest
surviving railway until 1960 - is a worthy candidate of the history books. It is
a complex human story of courage, humour and idiosyncrasy. It is a very Welsh
story for it is as large, folksy and
extraordinary as the ancient folk tales of our ancient Celtic nation of Wales,
except all of it happened!
The story commences in July 1804
at Swansea's Bush Inn (which survives to this day). Local investors, who were
responsible for quarrying and mining at
Mumbles, were gathered to discuss establishing a railroad between Mumbles and
the docks of Swansea. The initial
suggestion had been to construct a canal along the foreshore of Swansea Bay, but
this was met with vociferous opposition from parties such as Swansea docks which
feared the establishment of a rival dock at Mumbles. It was however essential to
mineral trade that a transport link was
established, so a new railroad was the perfect
compromise which threatened no other established business. The only
method of conveying limestone and other minerals until that time had been to
send heavily laden boats across Swansea Bay! This was as dangerous as it was
time consuming and much of the cargo must have been lost.
By
1806, the tram road had been completed. In those days, rail tracks were "L"
shaped, rather than flanged, and the carriage wheels fitted within this
configuration. One member of the company, Benjamin French, had a vision. He
proposed to convert an iron carriage for the conveyance of passengers. This was
an entirely original concept in 1807 because the railroad itself was a
relatively new "technology". Benjamin French is by no means famous, but
effectively, he is the godfather of all railway passengers.
French agreed to pay the company £20 a year for the
privilege of operating his passenger service on their line and he devised a
timetable. On 25 March, the timetable was first executed and this day is
officially recognised as the commencement of world's first passenger railway
service.
The original act of Parliament which furnished the
necessary legal permission to create the five mile railway in 1804 was worded so
the line could employ mechanical power, in addition to horses, to draw the
wagons and carriages. This was highly controversial at the time. Most scientists
of the early industrial revolution, such as James Watt, were convinced that
steam engines converted for the purpose of locomotion would be an
impracticality. However, the owners of the line at Swansea had close links with
Samuel Homfray's ironworks of Merthyr Tydfil, Wales, where Richard Trevithick
was developing a mechanical device that would be capable of pulling heavy wagons
by steam traction. In February 1804, Trevithick confounded his critics and
produced "Pennydarren", the first steam powered locomotive in the world to run
on rails. The locomotive hauled ten tons of iron and seventy people along a nine
mile route to Merthyr-Cardiff canal. Unfortunately, the experiment's initial
triumph was frustrated by the relative weakness of the early 19th Century iron
rails, which broke under the weight of the seven ton locomotive. The importance
of the outcome of this experiment affected the Swansea passenger service's
opportunity to also become the first steam powered passenger railway service in
the world, which would have predated the more famous Stockton-Darlington railway
by twenty years. Undeterred by Trevithick's failure, the creative Benjamin
French was determined to make his passenger carriage run faster, and he
experimented with various other forms of traction. This included attaching a
sail to the carriage, which reduced the journey to 45 minutes; however, this
method depended on a strong wind which wasn't always
forthcoming!
Meanwhile, the horse powered railway service did not
escape the consternation and delight of the wealthy passengers who could afford
the shilling fare (approximately 5 pence = 7 cents). In 1809, author Elisabeth
Isabella Spence wrote the following account of her bayside railway journey on
the Swansea to Mumbles service:
"I have never spent an afternoon with more delight than
the one exploring the romantic scenery at Oystermouth (Mumbles). I was conveyed
there in a carriage of singular construction built for the conveniency of
parties who go hence to Oystermouth to spend the day. This car contains twelve
persons and is constructed chiefly of iron, its four wheels run on an iron
railway by the aid of one horse, and the whole carriage is an easy and light
vehicle".
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Heavily
laden horse train at Oystermouth, Swansea. Circa. 1870.
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Very little information survives about the service
between the years of 1830 - 1860, but it is known that the track was refurbished
in the early 1860's and steam locomotives were introduced in the form of a
"Hughes" coke-powered device which was camouflaged as a carriage. The local
dignitaries, such as Swansea's mayor and Member of Parliament, were fearful of
this new "monstrosity". They predicted chaos as horses would be terrified at the
sight of the puffing iron beast. On 16 August 1877 they were invited to take a
horse to within yards of the passing locomotive, and it displayed no interest in
the locomotive whatsoever!
By
the late 1870's, a legal absurdity permitted two companies to operate services
on the single track railway. One of the companies issued a court injunction to
force their rivals to run exclusively horse-drawn services, while they provided
a steam locomotive service. The second half of the 19th Century was the railway
service's most turbulent era. The horse service was forced to leave the Swansea
terminus some minutes after the steam service and hot coals and cinders were
frequently thrown onto the track by the locomotive drivers in order to upset the
horses following! Other accidents were commonplace - a compensation tariff had
to be devised for Swansea farmers whose wildstock were killed after straying
onto the line. Humans were also killed or injured. An inquest was heard in the
1880's to investigate the death of an important politician who had become very
drunk one night and followed the track home. He was killed by an oncoming horse.
Local man Samuel Ace fell off his carriage and lost an arm when the locomotive
drove over it. Sunday night drunken brawling was commonplace on the last train
from Mumbles, and local newspaper, "The Cambrian", reported that these fights
were usually caused by arguments concerning young ladies.
In
1898 sanity returned to the line when one new company was responsible for the
services. The Mumbles terminus was extended to Swansea Bay lighthouse and an 835
ft. pier was constructed parallel with the lighthouse rocks as an incentive to
attract even more passengers. Entertainments such as brass bands and Welsh choir
music were provided and the investment which cost five times its allocated
budget of £10,000 was financially justified. During the Edwardian period,
between 1900 and 1920's, the railway usually carried up to 1,800 passengers per
single journey! This provided Swansea & Mumbles railway with another world
record - the most passengers conveyed on any train journey. People filled every
available space on the double deck carriages, and many clung precariously onto
the side railings. The fare conductors had dozens of classes of tickets to issue
and had to negotiate the dangerous railings and footboards. Due to the enormous
load of passengers the train progressed at only 5 miles per hour and the journey
took almost an hour to complete. Local children performed somersaults and tricks
by the trackside and many passengers showered them in coins for their efforts. A
young boy was employed as lookout on the front of the locomotive and rung a bell
if anything strayed onto the track. The passengers on the open top decks were
deluged in smoke and smuts from the steam locomotive, rendering their "Sunday
best" clothes filthy. However, they weren't perturbed at this inconvenience
because at the time it was believed that smoke killed germs! This era was a
golden age for the train which was affectionately known as "Puffing Billy". The
Victorian pier at Mumbles survives intact today.
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Boys perform
trackside tricks for passengers of a slow train. Notice the lookout boy at the
front left of the locomotive. Circa 1900.
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Due to the limitations of steam power, the innovative
line attempted to perfect a new form of carriage traction in 1902 - battery
accumulator. However, the early batteries were crude and the stored electrical
power drained too quickly. It was the company's intention to replace steam with
electric trams, the variety which followed overhead power cables. The expense of
electricity and the coming of the First World War thwarted these aspirations,
however, and the line wasn't electrified until 1929. The battery car was one of
seven methods of traction utilised in the railway's history, which gave the
Swansea line a further world record. These were: horse, sail, steam, battery,
petrol, diesel, and electric tram.
The new fleet of eleven electric trams were to be the
largest tramcars in U.K. service; each had a capacity of 106 seated passengers.
These were constructed by Brush Electrical Engineering Company at Loughborough.
The electrified line employed posts carrying overhead power lines, which was
converted to the requisite direct current in a purpose-built station at
Blackpill, which was located at approximately the half way stage of the tram's
route. The building survives to this day. The tram followed the traditional line
of the original railway, along the curvaceous scenic coast of Swansea Bay. At
some points the sea lapped up to within a few feet of the track. On March 2,
1929, the first day of the new tram's service, the public were delighted to
learn that the double-decker trams did not contain an open top deck - no more
smoke to inhale! The electrification not only met the immediate demand of the
railway but as the decades advanced many more passengers were to use the service
- for example, five million passengers and tourists were conveyed in 1945. To
cope with demand, it was commonplace to couple a pair of trams. Travelling the
"Mumbles Train" as it had now come to be known, was an enchanting experience;
the combination of the smooth, fast electric trams and the panoramic bayside
views provoked the illusion of gliding across water. There were ten stations
en-route from central Swansea to Mumbles - Swansea Rutland Street, "The Slip"
(the closest stop to Swansea civic centre, Victoria Park, St. Helen's cricket
& rugby stadium and the Brangwyn Concert Hall); Brynmill, Ashleigh Road,
Blackpill (where the electricity conversion station was located and the closest
stop to Clyne Park and the Blackpill Lido paddling pools); West Cross, Norton
Road, Oystermouth (at the heart of Mumbles), Southend and Mumbles Pier
terminus.
In
March 1941 the German Air Force partly destroyed Swansea centre in a series of
terrifying bombing raids; miraculously the Swansea railway survived in tact. The
large, bright red trams came to symbolise Swansea people's defiance in the face
of such devastating adversity. As such, the railway was the subject of
inestimable affection and emotional attachment to the Swansea population; it was
associated with happy weekends enjoying picnics and concerts by the sea, but it
also meant considerably more than this - it was a metaphor for the city's
survival.
In 1954, Swansea children were granted a day off school
to join in the celebrations of the Swansea line's 150th anniversary. Many
thousands of people dressed up in period costumes and the event was filmed for
television and cinema. Replica carriages were meticulously reconstructed to
emulate the original journeys of the horse drawn train in 1807 and the later
steam era. The trams were decorated and one was painted in the original cream
and crimson livery which was used between 1929 - 1933. However, as everyone
celebrated, sinister plans were being laid by the owners, a bus company which
were planning to purchase the line outright. The former South Wales Transport
company seemed to favour bus transport and were forced to declare their
intention to scrap the railway in late 1958. Throughout the 1950's the former
bus company maintained worn track by replacing it in inadvisably small sections.
This made the ride somewhat bumpy. The company's intention was to discourage
people from using the railway, a plot was developing to close the railway down.
But rather than alienating the public to the railway, this endeared it to them
more; the tram ride was by now referred to as the "rock and roll to paradise",
and a greater attraction than ever.
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Three incarnations
of Swansea and Mumbles Railway - the world's first fare paying passenger rail
service. Horse powered, steam and electric tramcar traction. The celebrations of
the 150th anniversary of the railroad, which at the time was also the longest
surviving line in world history (June 29,
1954).
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The Swansea public were outraged and dismayed at the
announcement to dismantle their historic and beloved railway. A campaign to
reverse the decision ensued, and a huge petition of 15,000 signatures were
swiftly collected. The Mumbles Pier Amusement Equipment Company hired a
barrister to oppose the case in Parliament but he withdrew within 12 hours of
the hearing. Another barrister was hired, but it wasn't possible to
comprehensively brief him of the full facts of the case, and the proposal to
dismantle the world's first and longest surviving railway was upheld by U.K.
Parliament. At 11.42am on 5 January 1960 the last journey of the world's first
railway service commenced, amidst the sound of a trumpet and a blaze of world
publicity. Children threw coins onto the track so the wheels of the tram would
buckle these and provide interesting souvenirs. The night before the last
journey, opponents of the railway's decommissioning dressed in black and
symbolically buried a cardboard coffin. It was as devastating a blow to Swansea
morale as the bombs of World War II had been 19 years earlier.
The driver for the final journey was Frank Duncan, one
of the Mumbles Train's great, colourful characters. He had driven the train
since 9th January 1903, after he was promoted as a boy from emergency bell
ringer, and then fireman, when the Mumbles Train was still a steam service. His
stunts were legendary. He would often stop the train alongside the Blackpill
golf coarse and confiscated golf balls that had strayed onto the track ... he
was even known to keep a hen that had wandered into the path of his train! His
service as a driver for the Mumbles Train had spanned 57
years.
Within minutes of the train returning to the Rutland
Street shed for the final time, the track was torn up and the trams were being
dismantled by a specialist breaker firm, Thomas Ward Bros. A complete tram was
offered to the Royal Institution of South Wales Museum, but the curator refused
to take it because he felt it was of "no historical interest"! However, a
driver's cab was removed - or shall we say guillotined - from one tram which can
be viewed today at Swansea Maritime Museum, alongside the replica horse drawn
carriage featured in Swansea & Mumbles Railway's 150th anniversary
celebrations. One complete tram was transported to England, to the Middleton
Railway Society in Leeds, but this was the subject of irreparable arson and
vandalism attacks in 1965.
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Photograph of
Mumbles tram at the Rutland Street terminus, Swansea. RE James-Robertson,
circa
1959
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Some time later, it transpired that the former South
Wales Transport bus company had submitted a claim at the parliamentary hearing
in 1959 that the railway was operating at a loss. However, the company accounts
which were published in later years revealed that although the company owned the
track outright, for accounting purposes it had been charging itself rent. In
fact, the railway had been making a £5,500 profit.
Very few people are aware of the unsubstantiated but
reliable report that Billie Butlin (who was a vacation camp entrepreneur) had
proposed to purchase the railway from the bus company and use it as part of a
themed holiday experience based at a camp located in the present day Maritime
Quarter. Whether there was any truth in this rumour we will never know. Swansea
Council, who had not opposed the dismantling of the railway, gained the Swansea
foreshore land which the tram negotiated; this was landscaped and converted to a
splendid bayside promenade and cycleway linking Swansea Maritime Quarter with
Mumbles. This is an experience which can be enjoyed today.
In the 1970's the Mumbles Railway Preservation Society
was established in order to formalise the line's archiving, and as an
interested party to assist in re-establishing Swansea's bayside railway. Many
ideas to reinstate the railway have been forthcoming in the years since,
including monorails, horse drawn services and "people carriers" - cableless
trams. Considering the peak time traffic congestion on the Swansea to Mumbles
road today, the railway would be a practical solution to relieving this artery
into the city centre. The loss of the railway still provokes an emotive response
from Swansea natives to this day. However, I don't believe that short
sightedness can exist interminably and one day our railway, the first passenger
service in the world, will return again to grace the sandy perimeter of romantic
Swansea Bay.
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Photograph of a
double coupling of the Swansea tram at Oystermouth Road, Swansea. AA Jarvis,
circa
1959.
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The Swansea Bay
scene today - the railway was replaced with a picturesque five mile promenade -
a popular location for walkers and
cyclists
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